The Volcano Kingdom

It was a year ago, almost to the day, that the Leopard emerged from the gloom to bid us farewell.

We had just checked into our chalet at Bakubung Lodge, and collected driving permits for, and a map of, the Pilanesberg Game Reserve at the main reception desk. Just outside the reception area stands the wooden hippo – a gentle firm reminder that “Bakubung” means “People of the Hippo” when translated from Tswana.

Around 4:30pm, having had our driving permits duly examined by the security guard (who greeted us in at least 12 different languages) our white Volkswagen Tiguan passed through Bukubung Gate. We had returned!

After our long drive from Johannesburg, today’s venture into the Park was to be short and nothing more than a brief reconnaissance mission. We moved northwards along the main road, named “Kubu” which presumably means “Hippo” in Tswana. Despite being a tarred road, Kubu was pitted with a myriad of potholes and this made it difficult for us to gather any sort of momentum.

Already autumn, it was a beautiful Friday afternoon in Africa, and the blue sky beamed over the golden savannah. Because of all the recent summer rainfalls, the Park was emerald green, particularly along the steep slopes that surrounded us on all sides. We were reminded of how the Pilanesberg lives and breathes within the enormous crater of an extinct volcano. We headed towards Mankwe Dam, the massive body of water at the centre of the Park and even this, from a distance, appeared swollen with summer precipitation.

We arrived at a small brick box, with names and distances neatly painted on all signs of it, and followed its direction to turn right into “Tshwene” road. We recalled how, the last time we were here, a little jackal had seemingly befriended us and that his home had been somewhere in these parts. The yellow grass was long and impossible to see through, so while he may have been watching us, of him we saw no sign.

Further along Tshwene was a herd of elephants, enjoying a gentle afternoon stroll whilst peacefully grazing on the plain of grass that extended to the north. One young bull elephant was near the road, ambling confidently eastwards, and we very cautiously drew up close to the powerful beast. Cheerfully munching mounds of grass, he was not at all perturbed by our presence and actually seemed to enjoy our photographic attention.

Eager to remain on the tarred roads today, we eased into “Tau” road and continued our leisurely journey along its winding path. The vegetation was thick and overgrown, and we saw nothing of interest. I must continue to research the meaning behind the various road names within the Park, each presumably representing the name of some animal in Tswana. Pilanesberg itself, of course, means “Pilane’s Mountain” and refers to Chief Pilane of the Tswana tribe who, for decades long past, once occupied the Park.

Tau returned us to the main road, and we decided to call it a day. We passed the Pilanesberg Centre on our right, but did not stop here. With the Pilanesberg Centre more or less at its heart, The Park extends approximately 20km from north to south, and 30km from east to west, therefore covering an area of over 500 square km.

We spotted the odd rhino and giraffe on our southward journey, and carefully navigated the minefield of potholes as we approached Bakubung Gate. Dusk was descending over the Park and soon the Gate would be closed for the night.

With a week of adventures ahead of us, we need some rest!

Join us in “The Mankwe Adventure” for a morning of action-packed adventure and entertaining sightings in the Pilanesberg Nature Reserve.